OIL / OIL EMULSION COMPRISING SOLID MICROPARTICLES, AT LEAST ONE HYDROCARBON RESIN, AT LEAST ONE OIL

专利摘要:
The invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil / oil (H / H) emulsion more particularly intended for makeup and / or care of the lips, comprising at least: solid microparticles having at least one curved part and at least one curvature failure of said curved portion, - at least one hydrocarbon resin with a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, - at least a first oily phase comprising at least a first oil chosen from silicone or fluorinated oils , preferably silicone, and - at least a second oily phase comprising at least a second nonvolatile or volatile oil, preferably nonvolatile, immiscible with the first oil or oils at room temperature.
公开号:FR3031670A1
申请号:FR1550471
申请日:2015-01-21
公开日:2016-07-22
发明作者:Virginie Perez-Nowak；Annabelle Servais
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] OIL / OIL EMULSION COMPRISING SOLID MICROPARTICLES, AT LEAST ONE HYDROCARBON RESIN, AT LEAST ONE FIRST OILY PHASE AND AT LEAST ONE SECOND OILY PHASE The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil / oil (H / H) emulsion, more particularly intended for make-up and / or care of the lips. The development of fluid compositions dedicated to make-up and / or care of the lips, such as lip gloss (liquid lipstick) which are stable and have satisfactory properties in terms of application (sliding on application, ease of use). spreading, fineness of the deposit), but also in terms of makeup effect, deposition on the lips, such as for example the gloss and / or the persistence of the gloss, preferably without developing stickiness, is a goal permanent.
[0002] Thus, there is still a need for new architectures leading to cosmetic compositions intended more particularly for makeup and / or lip care that are stable and have the comfort properties required by users. The authors of the present invention have oriented their research towards the W / O emulsions, particularly used in care products and / or make-up of the lips. These emulsions are uncommon but nevertheless have the advantage of presenting original properties. The main problem posed by this type of emulsion is related to their stability: the H / H emulsions are generally stabilized by gelling agents or even emulsifying surfactants and / or (co) polymers. For example, the patent application VVO 2009/150852 relates to an oil-in-oil cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile silicone oil and a fatty acid ester and dextrin, this application does not describe Pickering type H / H emulsions, that is, stabilized by solid particles. Advantageously and surprisingly, the authors of the present invention have used Pickering-type H / H emulsions stabilized with solid particles. Once positioned at the interface, the solid particles "block" the dispersed phase which leads to a stabilization of the dispersed phase in the form of droplets.
[0003] Surprisingly, the authors of the present invention have also noticed that in the field of makeup and / or lip care, this type of emulsion pickering in combination with particular raw materials made it possible to obtain a brilliant deposit with good gloss and color retention on the lips and a low level of stickiness. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a composition in the form of an oil / oil emulsion (H / H), intended more particularly for makeup and / or care of the lips having a good gloss as well as a good hold of the gloss. over time. Thus, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil / oil (H / H) emulsion more particularly intended for makeup and / or care of the lips, comprising at least: solid microparticles having at least one curved portion and at least one at least one curvature rupture of said curved portion, at least one hydrocarbon resin having a number average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, at least a first oily phase comprising at least a first oil chosen from silicone oils. or fluorinated, preferably silicone, and - at least a second oily phase comprising at least a second nonvolatile or volatile oil, preferably nonvolatile, the first oily phase being immiscible with the second oily phase at room temperature. The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to obtain a make-up, in particular of the lips, which is glossy, not very sticky and with a good remanence of the gloss. The emulsion according to the invention also makes it possible to dispense with the use as stabilizing agents of compounds of the surfactant type, in particular of synthesis and / or of gelling agents, in fact some of these agents may present risks of toxicity on the surface. environment according to the quantities used.
[0004] By "ambient temperature" is meant a temperature of about 25 ° C. It is set at atmospheric pressure (ie a pressure of 1.013, 105 Pa).
[0005] The compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium which is non-toxic and can be applied to the lips of human beings, and which has a pleasant appearance, odor and feel. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a liquid or pasty composition, and preferably liquid.
[0006] Solid particles: The composition according to the invention comprises solid microparticles having at least one curved portion and at least one curvature break of said curved portion.
[0007] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "microparticles" is intended to denote a particle whose largest dimension ranges from 0.1 to 100 μm, preferably from 0.1 to 50 μm and more preferably from 0.5 μm. at 20 pm. The solid microparticles that can be used to stabilize the H / H emulsion according to the invention have a particular shape, they thus have at least one curved part and at least one curvature rupture of said curved part, preferably the microparticles have at least two parts curves. According to a preferred variant, the solid microparticles that can be used in the present invention comprise several curvatures. By "several curvatures" is meant curvatures of different radius.
[0008] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "radius of curvature" does not cover the "infinite" value: "oe", thus the microparticles used according to the invention are not in the form of platelets or lamellae. In particular, the solid microparticles that can be used in the present invention comprise at least one concave part and at least one convex part.
[0009] More particularly, the microparticles according to this variant have a shape chosen from the "bowls", "golf balls" and "polytopes" type shapes. According to a second preferred variant, the solid microparticles that can be used in the present invention comprise a single curvature.
[0010] By "a single curvature" is meant, in the sense of the invention, when the microparticle comprises several curves, these curves have curvatures of the same radius. They are in particular chosen from fusiform microparticles, for example of the "balloon rugby" type, hemispherical. The solid microparticles that can be used in the present invention can be mineral or organic. In general, the microparticles that can be used in the present invention are such that their largest dimension ranges from 0.1 to 100 μm, preferably from 0.1 to 50 μm, and more preferably from 0.5 to 20 μm. Advantageously, the microparticles that can be used in the present invention have a density ranging from 0.5 to 2.8, preferably from 0.8 to 1.5. The microparticles according to the invention are generally obtained by radical polymerization or by polycondensation.
[0011] By "radical polymerization" is meant a polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer. In this case, the microparticles according to the invention preferably contain or consist of a polymer chosen from polyacrylates, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and polystyrenes.
[0012] By "polycondensation" is meant polymerization between two monomers with removal of a small molecule. In this case, preferably the microparticles according to the invention contain or consist of a polymer chosen from polysilicones, polyurethanes and polyesters.
[0013] Bowls According to the first variant of the invention, the microparticles comprise at least one concave part and at least one convex part, more particularly the microparticles have a hollow hemispherical shape, that is to say of the "bowl 30" type. The "bowls" microparticles may comprise or consist of a silicone material, and preferably they comprise or consist of a silicone material. This latter preferred mode is described in detail below as "concave particles of silicone material".
[0014] Concave particles of silicone material The concave particles present in the composition according to the invention are silicone particles, in particular hollow sphere portions made of a silicone material. Said particles preferably have an average diameter ranging from 0.1 pm to 20 pm, preferably from 0.5 to 15 pm. By mean diameter is meant the largest dimension of the particle. The portions of hollow spheres used in the composition according to the invention have the form of truncated hollow spheres, having a single orifice communicating with their central cavity, and having a cross section in the form of horseshoe or arch. The silicone material is a cross-linked polysiloxane of three-dimensional structure; it preferably comprises, or even consists of, units of formula (I) SiO 2 and of formula (II) R 1 SiO 1/2, in which R 1 denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly connected to the silicon atom. Advantageously, the solid microparticles are in the form of bowls and comprise or consist of units of formula (I) SiO 2 and of formula (II) R 1 SiO 1/2 in which R 1 denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly connected to the silicon atom. The organic group R1 may be a reactive organic group; R1 may be more particularly an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl group, an aminoalkyl group, a haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, an ureklo group, a cyano group and, preferably, an epoxy group, a group (meth) acryloxy, alkenyl, mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl. These groups generally comprise from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. The organic group R 1 may also be a non-reactive organic group; R 1 may then be more particularly a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, or a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl group. As the epoxy group, there may be mentioned a 2-glycidoxyethyl group, a 3-glycidoxypropyl group, a 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) propyl group. As the (meth) acryloxy group, there may be mentioned a 3-methacryloxypropyl group, a 3-acryloxypropyl group.
[0015] As the alkenyl group, there may be mentioned vinyl, allyl, isopropenyl groups. As the mercaptoalkyl group, mention may be made of mercaptopropyl and mercaptoethyl groups.
[0016] As the aminoalkyl group there may be mentioned 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropyl, 3-aminopropyl, N, N-dimethylaminopropyl. Haloalkyl is 3-chloropropyl, trifluoropropyl.
[0017] As glyceroxy group, there may be mentioned a 3-glyceroxypropyl group, a 2-g lyceoxyethyl group. As the ureido group, there may be mentioned a 2-ureidoethyl group. Cyano groups include cyanopropyl and cyanoethyl groups. Preferably, in the unit of formula (II), R1 denotes a methyl group.
[0018] Advantageously, the silicone material comprises the units (I) and (II) in a molar ratio of unit (I) / unit (II) ranging from 30/70 to 50/50, preferably ranging from 35/65 to 45/55. The particles of silicone material may in particular be capable of being obtained according to a process comprising: (a) introduction into an aqueous medium, in the presence of at least one hydrolysis catalyst, and optionally at least one surfactant, a compound (III) of formula SiX4 and a compound (IV) of formula RSiY3, wherein X and Y denote independently of one another a C1-C4 alkoxy group, an alkoxyethoxy group containing an alkoxy group C1-C4, a C2-C4 acyloxy group, an N, N-dialkylamino group containing C1-C4 alkyl groups, a hydroxyl group, a halogen atom or a hydrogen atom, and R denotes a group organic having a carbon atom directly attached to the silicon atom; and (b) contacting the mixture resulting from step (a) with an aqueous solution containing at least one polymerization catalyst and optionally at least one surfactant, at a temperature between 30 and 85 ° C, for at least two o'clock. Step (a) corresponds to a hydrolysis reaction and step (b) corresponds to a condensation reaction. In step (a), the molar ratio of the compound (III) to the compound (IV) is usually 30/70 to 50/50, preferably 35/65 to 45/45, and is preferably 40/60. The weight ratio of water to total of compounds (III) and (IV) is preferably from 10/90 to 70/30. The order of introduction of the compounds (III) and (IV) generally depends on their rate of hydrolysis. The temperature of the hydrolysis reaction is generally from 0 to 40 ° C and usually does not exceed 30 ° C to avoid premature condensation of the compounds. For the groups X and Y of the compounds (III) and (IV): As C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, mention may be made of methoxy and ethoxy groups; Alkoxyethoxy groups containing an alkoxy group include methoxyethoxy, butoxyethoxy; C 2 -C 4 alkoxy groups include acetoxy and propoxy groups; As N, N-dilakylamino group containing C1-C4 alkyl groups, there may be mentioned dimethylamino groups, diethylamino; As a halogen atom, mention may be made of chlorine and bromine atoms. As compounds of formula (III), there may be mentioned tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane, trimethoxyethoxysilane, tributoxyethoxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetrapropioxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetra (dimethylamino) silane, tetra (diethylamino) silane, silane, tetraol, chlorosilane triol, dichlorodisilanol, tetrachlorosilane, chlorotrihydrogensilane. Preferably, the compound of formula (III) is chosen from tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane and tetrabutoxysilane, and mixtures thereof. The compound of formula (III) leads after the polymerization reaction to the formation of units of formula (I). The compound of formula (IV) proceeds after the polymerization reaction to form the units of formula (II). The group R in the compound of formula (IV) has the meaning as described for the group R1 for the compound of formula (II). Examples of compounds of formula (IV) having a non-reactive organic group include methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltributoxysilane, butyltributoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxyethoxysilane, methyl tributoxyethoxysilane, methyltriacetoxysilane, methyltripropioxysilane, methyltriacetoxysilane, methyltri (dimethylamino) silane, methyltri (diethylamino) silane, methylsilane triol, methylchlorodisilanol, methyltrichlorosilane, methyltrihydrogensilane.
[0019] Examples of compounds of formula (IV) having a reactive organic group R include: silanes having an epoxy group such as 3-glycidoxypropyl trimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropyl triethoxysilane, 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) ethyl trimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropylmethyl dimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropylmethyl dimethoxysilane, 2-glycidoxyethylmethyldimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropyl dimethylmethoxysilane, 2-glycidoxyethyl dimethylmethoxysilane; silanes having a (meth) acryloxy group such as 3-methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane; silanes having an alkenyl group such as vinyl trimethoxysilane, allyl trimethoxysilane or isopropenyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having a mercapto group such as mercaptopropyl trimethoxysilane, mercaptoethyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having an aminoalkyl group such as 3-aminopropyl trimethoxysilane, 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropyl trimethoxysilane, N, N-dimethylaminopropyl trimethoxysilane, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having a haloalkyl group such as 3-chloropropyltrimethoxysilane, trifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane; silanes having a glyceroxy group such as 3-glyceroxypropyl trimethoxysilane, di (3-glyceroxypropyl) dimethoxysilane; silanes having a ureido group such as 3-ureklopropyltrimethoxysilane, 3-ureklopropylmethyldimethoxysilane, 3-ureklopropyl dimethylmethoxysilane; silanes having a cyano group such as cyanopropyl trimethoxysilane, cyanopropyl methyldimethoxysilane, cyanopropyl dimethylmethoxysilane. Preferably, the compound of formula (IV) having a reactive organic group R is chosen from silanes having an epoxy group, silanes having a (meth) acryloxy group, silanes having an alkenyl group, silanes having a mercapto group, silanes having an aminoalkyl group. Examples of preferred compounds (III) and (IV) for carrying out this invention are tetraethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane, respectively. As the hydrolysis and polymerization catalysts, basic catalysts such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate, ammonia or amines such as trimethylamine, triethylamine, tetramethylammonium hydroxide, or acidic catalysts such as organic acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-toluenesulphonic acid, dodecylbenzene acid; sulfonic acid, dodecylsulfonic acid, or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid.
[0020] When present, the surfactant used is preferably a nonionic or anionic surfactant or a mixture of both. Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate can be used as anionic surfactant. The end of the hydrolysis is marked by the disappearance of products (III) and (IV), insoluble in water, and obtaining a homogeneous liquid layer.
[0021] The condensation step (b) may use the same catalyst as the hydrolysis step or another catalyst selected from those mentioned above. At the end of this process, a suspension in water of fine organosilicone particles is obtained which may optionally subsequently be separated from their medium. The process described above may therefore comprise an additional filtration step, for example on a membrane filter, of the product resulting from step (b), optionally followed by a centrifugation step of the filtrate intended to separate the particles from the medium. liquid, then a drying step of the particles. Other separation methods can of course be employed. The shape of the hollow sphere portions obtained according to the above method, as well as their dimensions, will depend in particular on the method of contacting the products in step (b). A rather basic pH and a cold introduction of the polymerization catalyst into the mixture resulting from step (a) will lead to portions of hollow spheres in the form of "bowls" with a rounded bottom while a rather acid pH, and a dropwise introduction of the mixture from step (a) into the hot polymerization catalyst will result in hollow sphere portions having a horseshoe-shaped cross-section. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, portions of hollow spheres in the form of "bowls" are used. These can be obtained as described in the application JP-A-2003-128788 or FR 2 902 654. The parts of these applications devoted to the type of "bowls" and their preparation methods are incorporated by reference in the present text. . Portions of horseshoe-shaped hollow spheres are described in JP-A-2000-191789.
[0022] FIG. 1 of FR 2 902 654 illustrates a concave particle in the form of portions of bowl-shaped spheres in cross-section. The width VV2 corresponds to the diameter of the particles. As is apparent from this figure, these concave portions are formed (in section perpendicular to a plane of the opening defined by the hollow sphere portion) of a small internal arc (11), a large external arc (21) and segments (31) which connect the ends of the respective arcs, the width (W1) between the two ends of the small inner arc (11) ranging from 0.01 to 8 μm, preferably from 0.02 to 6 μm on average the width (N1V2) between the ends of the large outer arc (21) ranging from 0.05 to 10 μm, preferably from 0.06 to 8 μm on average and the height (H) of the large outer arc (21). ranging from 0.015 to 8 μm, preferably from 0.03 to 6 μm on average. The dimensions mentioned above are obtained by calculating the average of the dimensions of one hundred selected particles on an image obtained with a scanning electron microscope.
[0023] As concave particles in the form of portions of spheres that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: the particles consisting of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer) of the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, in the form of bowl, 2.5 μm wide, 1.2 μm high and 150 nm thick (particles sold under the name NLK-506 by Takemoto Oil &Fat); the particles consisting of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, in the form of a bowl, with a width of 0.8 μm, a height of 0.4 μm and a thickness of 130 μm; nm (particles sold under the name NLK-515 by Takemoto Oil &Fat); the particles consisting of the reticulated organosilicone TAK-110 (cross-linked methylsilanol / silicate polymer) from the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, in the form of a bowl, with a width of 7 μm, a height of 3.5 μm and a thickness of 200 nm ( particles sold under the name NLK-510 by Takemoto Oil & Fat). Preferably, the solid microparticles according to the invention consist of crosslinked methylsilanol / silicate polymer. Advantageously, the silicone concave particles, in particular the bowls, have an average diameter less than or equal to 5 μm, in particular ranging from 0.1 μm to 5 μm, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 5 μm, more preferably from 0, 5 to 4 μm, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3 μm. Polytopes According to another variant, the microparticles that can be used according to the invention are non-spherical fine particles in the form of polygons having at least six concave faces. These particles are characterized by an average value of the maximum external diameters of said individual non-spherical fine particles ranging from 0.1 to 20 μm; an average value of the ratio between the minimum external diameters and the maximum external diameters of said individual non-spherical fine particles ranging from 0.60 to 0.97; and an average number of concave surfaces, whose ratio of the maximum relative diameter to the maximum outside diameter ranges from 0.50 to 0.90, ranges from 6 to 14 per non-spherical fine particle. These particles are described in more detail in the application EP 2 476 719 A1, the parts of this application devoted to the definition of nonspherical fine particles and their method of preparation are incorporated by reference in the present text.
[0024] The non-spherical fine particles in the form of polygons having at least six concave faces that can be used according to the invention are also called "polytopes" or "ossicles", the largest dimension of these particles is preferably from 1 to 10 μm).
[0025] In another variant, the microparticles that can be used according to the invention are particles of non-(spherical) shape, in particular fusiform, also called "rugby ball" shape. The fusiform microparticles as well as the processes for obtaining them are in particular described in the Japanese patent application 2003-171465 filed by Takemoto Fat & Oil. Golf balls As usable golf balls, mention may be made especially of organic silicone microparticles comprising a polysiloxane crosslinked structure, of globally spherical shape and having on their surface a multitude of recesses. Microparticles of this type and the processes for obtaining them are described in particular in Japanese Patent JP 38 46667 filed by TAKEMOTO OIL 35 & FAT.
[0026] Preferably, the total amount of solid microparticles comprising at least one curved portion and at least one rupture of the curvature of said curved portion ranges from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. Preferably, the solid microparticles according to the invention comprise one or more curvatures, preferably several curvatures. Preferably, the solid microparticles according to the invention have a hollow hemispherical shape, that is to say of the "bowls" type.
[0027] Resin: The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon resin with a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol.
[0028] Advantageously, the softening point of the resin varies from 70 to 130 ° C., more particularly from 80 to 120 ° C., and preferably from 90 to 110 ° C. (ASTM standard E 28). Advantageously, this number-average molecular weight is from 250 g / mol to 10,000 g / mol, preferably from 250 g / mol to 5,000 g / mol, more preferably from 250 g / mol to 2,000 g / mol, or even from 250 g / mol to 1,000 g / mol. The number average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by liquid gel permeation chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). As aliphatic hydrocarbon resin, there may be mentioned preferably: - hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers sold under the name "REGALITE" by Eastman Chemical, in particular REGALITE R1090, REGALITE R1100, REGALITE S1100, and REGALITE S5100 or under the name ARKON P-90, ARKON P-100, and ARKON P-115, by Arakawa; aliphatic pentanediene resins such as those resulting from the polymerization mainly of 1,3-pentanediene monomers (trans or cis piperylene) and of a minor monomer chosen from isoprene, butene, 2-methyl-2-butene, pentene, 1,4-pentanediene and mixtures thereof. These resins may have a molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 2500 g / mol. Such 1,3-pentanediene resins are sold for example under the references PICCOTAC 95 by the company Eastman Chemical, ESCOREZ 1102, ESCOREZ 1304, ESCOREZ 1310LC, ESCOREZ 1315 by the company Exxon Chemicals, VVINGTACK 95 by the company Cray Valley; diene resins of dimers of cyclopentanediene, such as those resulting from the polymerization of dicyclopentanediene, methyldicyclopentanediene, other dimers of pentanediene, and mixtures thereof. These resins generally have a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 800 g / mol, such as for example those sold under the reference ESCOREZ 5380, ESCOREZ 5300, ESCORE 5400, ESCORE 5415, ESCOREZ 5490, by the company Exxon Mobil Chem., And the SUKOREZ SU-90, SUKOREZ SU-100, SUKOREZ SU-110, SUKOREZ SU-100S, SUKOREZ SU-200, SUKOREZ SU-210, SUKOREZ SU-490, SUKOREZ SU-400, by Kolon; the hydrogenated resins resulting from the polymerization of pentanediene, such as those sold under the name EASTOTAC H-100E, EASTOTAC H-115E, EASTOTAC C-100L, EASTOTAC C-15L, EASTOTAC H-100L, EASTOTAC H-115L, EASTOTAC C- 100R, EASTOTAC C-115R, EASTOTAC H-100R, EASTOTAC H-15R, EASTOTAC C-100W, EASTOTAC C-115W, EASTOTAC H100VV, EASTOTAC H-115W, by Eastman Chemical Co.; - and their mixtures. The resin is, for example, the hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymer sold under the name REGALITE R1110 by the company Eastman Chemical, or the aliphatic resin of 1,3-pentanediene sold under the name PICCOTAC 1095 by the company Eastman Chemical. Preferably, the resin (s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon resins. Preferably, the resin (s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers.
[0029] Preferably, the content of hydrocarbon resin according to the invention is from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 25%, even more preferably from 1.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a content of hydrocarbon resin greater than or equal to 0.5%, even greater than or equal to 1%, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils: The composition according to the invention comprises two oily phases, a first oily phase comprising at least a first oil chosen from silicone or fluorinated oils and a second oily phase comprising at least a second oil; the first oily phase being immiscible with the second oily phase at ambient temperature, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg / 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "immiscible oily phases" means that the mixture of the oily phases, two by two, does not lead to a homogeneous uniphasic solution. Said mixture is made with the same amount by weight of each oil.
[0030] For the purposes of the invention, the term "oils" means a compound whose viscosity is at most 200,000 cPs (200 Pa · s) at 25 ° C. Also, within the meaning of the invention, an "oil" is immiscible with water (mixture made with the same amount of water). It should be noted that the viscosities are measured according to the following protocol: The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C. ± 0.5 ° C. using a Haake RS600 imposed stress rheometer from Thermo Rhéo equipped with a movable cone / plane geometry of a diameter between 2 cm and 6 cm and an angle between 1 ° and 2 °, the choice of the mobile being a function of the viscosity to be measured (the more the formula is fluid, the more the selected cone diameter is large and the angle is small).
[0031] The measurement is made by imposing on the oil sample a logarithmic gradient of shear gradient ranging from 10-3s-1 to 1000s-1 for a period of 5 minutes. The rheogram representing the evolution of the viscosity is then plotted as a function of the shear gradient s'. The value considered is that of the viscosity at 500s-1, whether measured at this gradient or extrapolated by the plot if no experimental point corresponds to this value. More particularly, the oils are said to be "immiscible" when their mixture leads to a phase separation according to the following protocols: For oils having a viscosity of less than 10,000 cPs (10 Pa · s) at 25 ° C., both are introduced. oils to be evaluated (5 g / 5 g) at room temperature, in a plastic cone-shaped centrifuge tube (ref Corning® 15mL PET Centrifuge Tubes, Rack Packed with Seal Cap Plug, Sterile (Product # 430055) only It is placed in a VORTEX GENIE 2 machine, stirring is performed at a speed of 10 seconds then a manual overturning of the tube before returning it to the VORTEX apparatus.This cycle is repeated 3 times in succession. stand at room temperature for 48 hours If at least one of the oils has a viscosity greater than or equal to 10,000 cPs (10 Pa · s) at 25 ° C, then the mixture of the two oils (5 g / 5 g ) in an oven at 50 ° C for 30 minutes before ant to perform the three cycles of agitation described above. The mixture is then observed. When the mixture is separated into two phases and at the interface, the separation of the two phases is clearly defined, the phases are considered "separated" and the oily phases are therefore immiscible.
[0032] In the opposite case, the mixture is observed under a phase contrast microscope at room temperature (approximately 25 ° C.). If a continuous phase and a dispersed phase in the form of drops are observed, the phases are considered to be "separated" and the oily phases are considered immiscible.
[0033] If the observation of the mixture reveals only one phase, then the phases are considered to be "non-separated" and the oily phases are considered to be miscible. This same protocol is used to check the miscibility of the oil with water.
[0034] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first oily phase containing at least one non-volatile oil, and a second oily phase containing at least one volatile or non-volatile oil. Preferably, the first and second oily phases each contain at least one non-volatile oil.
[0035] The term "non-volatile" means an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "volatile" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0036] More particularly, the term "volatile oil" means an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa. and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa, and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa. First oil phase The first oily phase comprises at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, oils and the like. fluorinated or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils; phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils, with or without at least one dimethicone fragment; fluorinated oils; or their mixtures. This first oily phase may be the continuous phase or the dispersed phase.
[0037] By "silicone oil" is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. 1. Silicone Oils Non-Phenylated Non-volatile Silicone Oils The term "non-phenyl silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil having no phenyl substituent. Representative examples of such non-volatile, non-phenolic silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. Note that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). In particular, these oils may be chosen from the following non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) as sold by Dow Corning, PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl, or alkoxy groups, which are pendants and / or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of the cetyldimethicone sold under the trade name ABIL WAX 9801 by Evonik Goldschmidt, PDMSs comprising at least one aliphatic group and / or at least one functional group such as the hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.
[0038] The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is preferably chosen from non-volatile dimethicone oils. Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones and also PDMSs comprising at least one aliphatic group, in particular C2-C24 alkyl, and / or at least one functional group such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I '): R 1 X - Si- in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25 ° C. is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 × 10 -6 m 2 / s) and 800,000 cSt (ie between 8 mPa.s and 720000 mPa $).
[0039] As non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which: the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cSt (ie 450000 mPa. $), for example the product marketed under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product marketed under the name AK 500000 by the company VVacker, the product marketed under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cSt (450000 mPa. $), By Dow Corning, - the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt (54,000 mPa · s), for example the product marketed under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 OS by Dow Corning, and the product marketed under the name VVacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the VVacker company, - the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt (or 90 mPa. $), or 350 cSt (or 315 mPa. $), by for example, the products sold under the names Belsil DM100 dimethicone from VVacker, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, Dow Corning® 200 Fluid, 100 cSt, Dow Corning® SH 200 Fluid 100 CS by Dow Corning, respectively; R 1 to R 6 represent a methyl group, X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt (630 mPa · s), for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the Momentive company.
[0040] Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils The expression "phenyl silicone oil" or "phenylsilicon (e) e oil denotes a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent. These phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those which furthermore have at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those which do not have one. According to the invention, a dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following unit: -Si (CH3) 2-0-.
[0041] The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from: a) phenylsilicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (I): R-Si-O IIRR 11 R Si (I) in which the R groups , monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenylsilicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. b) phenylsilicone oils having or not a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (2): R-Si-O-Si-O-Si-R (II) in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R is phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds previously described may be used. Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes. Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made more particularly of phenylsilicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the radicals remaining representing methyl.
[0042] Such nonvolatile phenylsilicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,1,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl- pentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used. They correspond in particular to the following formulas (III), (III '): Ph Ph Ph Me Ph Me Me-Si-O-Si-O-Si-Me Ph-Si-O-Si-O-Si-Ph 1 1 Ph Ph (III) Me Ph Me (III ') in which Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl. (IV) wherein Me is methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X is -CH2-CH (CH3) (Ph). C) phenylsilicone oils having at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to the following formula (IV): IMe IMe X-Si-HO-Si-O-Si-X 1 YI Me Me Me d) Phenylsilicone oils corresponding to the formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof: R, R, R 5 R 81 - Si R 2 R, R, R, (V) in which: R 1 to R 10, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals in the form of C1-C30; m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 900; , provided that the sum m + n + q is different from 0. Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. Preferably, R1 to R10, independently of each other, represent a linear C1-C30 alkyl radical. e or branched, preferably C 1 -C 20, more particularly C 0 -C 16, or a C 6 -C 14 and especially C 0 -C 0 -C 1 aryl radical, monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is preferably Cl-03. Preferably, R 1 to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R1 to R10 may in particular be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. According to a first more particular embodiment of the formula (V), mention may be made of: i) phenylsilicone oils having or not at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof: Wherein R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals in which R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals in which R 1 to R 6 030 saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, an aryl radical, preferably at 06-014, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is at Cl-03. m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of one of the other, represent a C 1 -C 30, preferably C 1 -C 20, especially C 1 -C 20, alkyl radical, or a monocyclic (preferably C 6 -C 20) or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 aryl radical and in particular 013, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is at 06, the alkyl part is at Cl-03). Preferably, R 1 to R 6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R1 to R6 may in particular be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (VI).
[0043] According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimeth icone fragment. Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which: A) m = 0 and n and p are independently of one another, integers between 1 and 100. Preferably R1 to R6 are methyl radicals. According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu, KF54HV from Shin Etsu, KF-50-3000S from Shin Etsu, KF-53 from Shin Etsu, KF-50 -1000S of Shin Etsu. B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, and n = 0. These phenylsilicone oils having or not at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding more particularly to the formula (VII) below: Me Me OR Me Me-Li Si 0 0 il-O-II-Me 1 IPI m I Me Me Ph Me (VII) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -O SiMe3 and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
[0044] According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000. m is more particularly such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. It can be used, for example, polyphenyltrimethylsiloxydimethylsiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company VVacker. According to a second embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone having no dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0. m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. can be used, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556). ii) nonvolatile phenylsilicone oils having no dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof: H3C-Si-O S 0 Si-O Si CH Si I 3 (CH3) (VIII) in which: R, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical; more particularly, R represent a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably a C 6 -C 14 radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C 1 -C 3. m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R, independently of one another, represent a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, in particular a C1-C20, in particular a C1-C16, a monocyclic or a polycyclic C6 -C14 aryl radical and in particular a C10-C10 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, preferably the aryl part is at 06 and the alkyl part is at Cl-03. Preferably, the R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. The R may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied in formula (VIII).
[0045] According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably R is a methyl radical. According to one embodiment, a phenylsilicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (i.e., from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used. According to this embodiment, the nonvolatile phenylsilicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n = 0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), or from diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n range from 1 to 100), such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt). Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. (e) phenylsilicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof: R 1 R 5 X 11 O-Si-O-Si-X R 6 R 2 P (IX) in which: R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a radical; aryl (preferably at 06-014), with the proviso that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g / mole. f) and a mixture thereof. 2. Fluorinated oils According to another embodiment, the first non-volatile oil is chosen from fluorinated oils. The fluorinated oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones, in particular as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds. By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by fluorine atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the first fluorinated oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluorinated oils. As examples of perfluorinated oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalin and perfluoperhydrophenanthrene.
[0046] According to a preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow® products sold by Créations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose name I NCI is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOVV 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.
[0047] Second Oily Phase The second oily phase comprises at least one second nonvolatile or volatile oil, immiscible with the first oil, at room temperature. Preferably the second oily phase comprises at least a second non-volatile oil, immiscible with the first oil, at room temperature.
[0048] This second oily phase may be the continuous phase or the dispersed phase. The second oil or oils may advantageously be chosen from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising at most one free or non-free hydroxyl group, or from non-volatile oils comprising at least two groups. free hydroxyls, or from nonpolar hydrocarbon apolar oils, or mixtures thereof. According to a second possibility, the second or second oils are chosen from silicone oils immiscible with the first oil. What has been previously described about the first oily phase is applicable in this case. We can therefore refer to it. 1. Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, as well as of heteroatom (s) such as carbon atoms. oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It can thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. In particular, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be chosen from the following list of oils, and their mixtures: a) Non-volatile oils comprising at most one free hydroxyl group or not including the second or the second oils may be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils comprising at most one free hydroxyl group, or not including it. As examples of oils of this type, mention may be made of: i) ester oils * vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, more particularly from 4 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0049] By way of examples, mention may be made of triglycerides of heptandic or octanoic acids, jojoba oil, sesame oil, ximenia seed oil, or mixtures thereof. * Synthetic glycerides such as those of capric / caprylic acids, the 018-36 acid triglyceride (DU B TGI 24 stearinerie dubois). Monoesters or diesters obtained from saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, aromatic or otherwise, in particular comprising from 4 to 40, in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a free hydroxyl, a part, and saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol, aromatic or not, comprising from 2 to 40, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms (excluding carbonyl group) being at least 12, preferably at least 16, the ester comprising at most one free hydroxyl if it contains. As examples of monoesters or diesters, mention may be made of purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, alcohol benzoate in 0 to 018, such as octyl benzoate dodecyl, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, octy1-2 dodecyl stearate, octyldiecyl dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, preferably diols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate; or their mixtures. Fatty acid mono- and diesters are also suitable, in particular at 04-022, preferably at 06-022, and in particular at octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid or oleic acid. , lauric acid, stearic acid, and glycol 03-06, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate. hydroxyl mono- and di-esters, preferably having a total number of carbon ranging from 20 to 70, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate or diisostearyl malate. * The esters of pentaerythritol and mono- or di-fatty acids in 06-022, such as the mixture of pentaerythritol ester and isostearic acid, capric, caprylic and adipic (Supermol-L Croda). Polyesters comprising at least three ester functions, of mono- or poly-carboxylic acids, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally hydroxyl, at 04-040 and respectively of polyols or of monohydric alcohols, preferably, 03-040; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl. By way of example, mention may be made of oils comprising three ester functions, of acid comprising three carboxylic functions, monohydroxylated, and of 02-04 monohydric alcohol, in particular triethyl citrate. By way of example, mention may be made of linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MVV = 697 g / mol).
[0050] Also suitable are esters of fatty alcohol or branched fatty acids, such as in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MVV = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MVV = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate ( MM = 891 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MVV = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MVV = 1232 g / mol), and also those described in application EP-A-0 955 039 , such as glyceryl tri-decyltetradecanoate (MVV = 1143 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyltetradecanoate (MVV = 1538 g / mol). It is also possible to mention esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms such as tridecyl trimellitate (MVV = 757 g / mol).
[0051] The polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid (s) triglyceride (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as castor oil may be used. of succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech. ii) monohydroxy fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 26 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; iii) 0-12-026 fatty acids, preferably saturated or unsaturated, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; iv) di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and y) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216 sold or manufactured by ISP (MVV = 7300 g / mol). 2. Non-volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups: The second or second oils may be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups. According to an advantageous variant of the invention, the second oil or oils further comprise at least one ester function. As examples of suitable oils, mention may be made of: * vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, advantageously at least three free hydroxyl groups, such as castor oil; hydroxyl esters, preferably having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl triisostearate (MVV = 965 g / mol), polyglyceryl isostearate 1-2; polyglyceryl diisostearate 1-2; polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, glycerine stearate; glycerine isostearate; or their mixtures; the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters of the general formula HO-R1 - (- 000-R2- 000-R1-) h-OH, in which: R1 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of the dilinoleic diacid, R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD- DA70, and the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA. 3. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils apolar The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as oil (s) present in the second oil phase, at least one apolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" is intended to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and not containing oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or of fluorine. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutenes such as, for example, INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MVV = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MVV = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MVV = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parléam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the AMOCO company (MW = 1340 g / mol), the Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL (MVV = 6000 g / mol), the REVVOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company VVITCO (MVV = 1000 g / mol) , or the PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation, - the decene / butene copolymers polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example: PURESYN 10 (MVV = 723 g / mol) and PURESYN 150 (MVV = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company MOBIL CHEMICALS, or the PURESYN 6 marketed by DOKONMOBIL CHEMICAL), and their mixtures. 4. Silicone or Hydrocarbon Volatile Oils The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as oil (s) present in the second oily phase, at least one volatile silicone or hydrocarbon oil. According to the invention, these volatile oils facilitate, in particular, the application of the composition to the skin, lips or integuments. These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils optionally comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups or at the end of the silicone chain or a mixture of these oils. As the volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclo-tetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (sold under the reference XIAMETER PMX-0246 CYCLOHEXASILOXANE by Dow Corning) and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon volatile oils that may be used in the invention include volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane (marketed under the name ISOHEXADECANE by the company INEOS) and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls and mixtures thereof.
[0052] Preferably, isododecane (permetyls 99 A), isoparaffins 08-016 as Isopar L, E, G or H, their mixtures, optionally associated with decamethyl tetrasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane. Fluorinated volatile oils can also be used.
[0053] The term "oily phase" means a phase composed solely of oil and for example free of hydrocarbon resin of average molecular weight less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol or optionally of pasty fatty substance. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil or oils, when they are used, are present in a content such that the two oily phases are immiscible within the meaning of the invention. The composition according to the invention more particularly comprises a content in the first oily phase of between 5% and 60% by weight, preferably between 10% and 50% by weight and even more preferably between 20% and 50% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition. The composition according to the invention comprises a content in the second oily phase of between 5% and 60%, preferably between 10% and 55%, even more preferably between 15% and 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0054] Preferably, the first oily phase comprises at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from the non-phenylated oils of formulas (I), from the phenylated oils of formula (II), in particular (III), of formula (V), in particular (VI) or (VII), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the first oily phase comprises at least one oil chosen from phenylsilicone nonvolatile oils which may or may not have at least one dimethicone moiety, more preferably the first oily phase comprises at least one oil having at least one dimethicone moiety. The oil constituting the first oily phase is polyphenyltrimethylsiloxydimethylsiloxane.
[0055] Preferably, the second oily phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Preferably, the second oily phase comprises at least one polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one apolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture of one or more polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils and one or more oils. Nonpolar hydrocarbonaceous hydrocarbons. Preferably, the nonvolatile polar oil is an oil comprising at most one free hydroxyl group or not including, preferably a polyester comprising at least three ester functions of mono- or poly-carboxylic acids, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally hydroxyl, at 04-040 and respectively of polyols or monohydric alcohols at 02-040, preferably at 03-040; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0056] Preferably, the apolar non-volatile oil is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as polybutenes. The composition may comprise at least one volatile oil. More particularly, the first oily phase and / or the second oily phase may comprise at least one volatile oil. Reference may be made to what has been detailed above concerning the nature of these oils. These volatile oils represent less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0057] Pasty fats: The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty fatty substance. Note that this pasty fat is immiscible with water. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a reversible solid / liquid change-state compound, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty fatty substance may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty fatty substance sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the pasty compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3; 1999. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to pass the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it presents at 2 ° C. consisting of a liquid fraction and a liquid fraction. solid fraction.
[0058] The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.
[0059] The pasty fatty substance may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and vegetable fats. The pasty fatty substance (s) may in particular be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, lanolines oxypropylenes; petroleum jelly (also known as petrolatum), polyol ethers chosen from among pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol C 2 -C 4 ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] For example, mention may be made of pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO). (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company VEVY, a mixture in which components are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil, - polymeric silicone compounds or not, - the polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, - vinyl polymers, in particular - homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, - homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, - linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of (m th) alkyl acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having 08-030 alkyl groups, and homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups containing 08-030, - the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more diols at 02-0100, preferably at 02-050. Among the liposoluble polyethers, ethylene-oxide and / or propylene-oxide copolymers are particularly considered with long-chain alkylenes oxides at 06-030, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL. esters and polyesters. Among the esters, particular mention is made of: the esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and diglycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as, for example, the caprylic fatty acid ester , capric, isostearic, stearic, hydrostearic and adipic glyceryl (INCI name: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2) sold under the reference SOFTISANO 649 by Sasol, - homopolymers of vinyl ester having alkyl groups in 08030, such as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomère PP by the company Chimex), - arachidyl propionate marketed under the trade name VVaxenol 801 by ALZO, - phytosterol esters, - triglycols. fatty acid wrinkles and their derivatives, - pentaerythritol esters, - esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate, esterified on their function (s) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) ( s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may in particular be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and their mixtures, vegetable butters such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aharushkarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rai forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax, for example, the one marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, for example hydrogenated soybean oil, oil hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil mixtures such as the hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aharushkarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the product marketed under the reference Cegesoft® HF 52 from BASF (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert VVhale under the trade reference Iso -Jojoba-500, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurroliv e by Soliance, - esters of hydrogenated castor oil, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSH IN OIL, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances that are suitable for carrying out the invention are chosen from hydrocarbon compounds and comprise, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least oxygen atoms. The pasty fatty substances therefore do not include a silicon atom or a fluorine atom. According to a preferred embodiment, the binder phase comprises at least one pasty fatty substance, advantageously chosen from lanolin and its derivatives, esters, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the pasty fatty substance or fats are chosen from lanolin and its derivatives, esters of glycerol oligomers, butters of plant origin, vegetable oils which are totally or partially hydrogenated, esters of hydrogenated castor oil, or their mixtures.
[0061] Preferably, the pasty fatty substance or fats are chosen in particular from glycerol oligomer esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture of esters of glycerol oligomers. oligomers of glycerol, hydrogenated castor oil esters and vegetable oils totally or partially hydrogenated.
[0062] Preferably, the pasty fatty substance or fats are chosen in particular from esters of glycerol oligomers, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and diglycerol condensates. If the composition according to the invention comprises, the pasty fatty substance content at room temperature and atmospheric pressure advantageously represents from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes: The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. go up to 120 ° C. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER. Preferably, the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at a heating rate of 10 ° C. C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a rate of heating 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. Preferably, the wax or waxes are chosen from waxes whose melting point is greater than or equal to 60 ° C., preferably greater than or equal to 65 ° C. Preferably, the wax or waxes may be chosen in particular from linear C18-C24 hydroxyl fatty acids, which are preferably saturated. Linear C18-C24 Hydroxy Linear Fatty Acid Preferably, the linear C18-C24 hydroxylated fatty acid is 12-hydroxystearic acid. This compound is especially sold under the reference 1225 HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID PREMIUM GRADE 12H-P by Thai Kawaken. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of C18-C24 hydroxylated linear fatty acid (s), ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better still preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional waxes: The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional wax different from the linear C18-C24 hydroxylated fatty acid. According to a preferred embodiment, the additional wax content (s) is between 0.1 to 10% by weight, more particularly between 0.5 and 7% by weight, and even more preferably between 0, 5% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of waxes is less than 12% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, and even more advantageously less than 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The additional waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar additional wax, apolar, or mixtures thereof. Polar waxes: According to a first embodiment of the invention, the additional wax is a polar wax.
[0063] By "polar" wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C 8a is different from 0 (J / cm3) 1/2. In addition, said polar waxes exhibit a reversible solid / liquid state change, as well as the previously mentioned melting point characteristics. In particular, "polar" wax is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - 8D characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; -8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; -8h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; - 6a is determined by the equation: 8a = (81) 2 8h2r / 2 The parameters 8p, 8h, 8D and 8a are expressed in (J / cm3)%.
[0064] The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0065] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax. As hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred. By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function.
[0066] By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. According to a first embodiment, the polar wax is chosen from ester waxes, alcohol waxes and silicone waxes.
[0067] Preferably, the ester wax is chosen from: i) waxes of formula R1000R2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as 0 In particular, it is possible to use as an ester wax an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate of 0-20-040 (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture, or an alkyl stearate of 0 to 20 carbon atoms. -040. Such waxes are sold, for example, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 PO", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 PO", "Kester Wax K 80 PO", or "Kester KSH WAX" by the company Koster Keunen. It is also possible to use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol, such as the wax LICOVVAX KPS FLAKES (INCI name: montanate glycol) marketed by Clariant. ii) di- (trimethyl-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-45® by the company HETERENE, iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R 3 - (- 000-R4-000-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a linear branched 04-030 aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated, and preferably linear and unsaturated, iv) waxes corresponding to the partial or total esters, preferably total, of a carboxylic acid in 016-030, saturated, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol. By total esters is meant that all the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. By way of example, there may be mentioned trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate) sold under the name THIXCIN R by ELEMENTIS, tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenine (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture . y) mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, at 08-032, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the SOPHIM company. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2792190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as that sold under the name "PHYTOVVAX Olive 18L57" or else; bee, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, wax Alfa, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax (vii) According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcoholic wax.
[0068] More particularly, these waxes are fatty alcohols in 0-16-050, advantageously in 016-040, preferably linear, preferably saturated and optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl. The waxes may also be polyoxyethylenated. As alcohol wax, mention may be made, for example, of Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, palmitic alcohol, behen alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. According to a second embodiment, the polar wax may be silicone-like silicone beeswax.
[0069] Preferably, the additional wax is a polar wax chosen from waxes corresponding to the total esters of a carboxylic acid in 016-030, saturated, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol, such as trihydroxystearine; beeswax; synthetic beeswax; polyglycerolated beeswax; carnauba wax; candelilla wax; oxypropylenated lanolin wax; the wax of rice bran; the wax of Ouricury; the wax of Alfa; cork fiber wax; sugar cane wax; wax of Japan; sumac wax; montan wax; Orange wax; Laurel wax; hydrogenated Jojoba wax, alone or mixed.
[0070] Apolar waxes: According to another embodiment, the additional wax is an apolar wax. By "apolar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, 8a is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/2.
[0071] In addition, said apolar waxes exhibit a reversible solid / liquid state change, as well as the previously mentioned melting point characteristics. The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
[0072] In particular, apolar wax means a wax which consists solely of apolar wax and not a mixture which also includes other types of waxes which are not apolar waxes. As an illustration of apolar waxes suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes and polyethylene waxes, microwaxes, especially polyethylene. As polyethylene wax, there may be mentioned PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE marketed by New Phase Technologies and ASENSA SC 211 marketed by HONEYVVELL.
[0073] As polymethylene wax, there may be mentioned Cl REBELLE108 marketed by Cirebelle. As ozokerite mention may be made of OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of MU LTIVVAX W 4450 marketed by SONNEBORN and MICROVVAX HVVO and BASE WAX 305400 marketed by PARAMELT. As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, there may be mentioned in particular polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 2000, 2200, 220L0 and 25050 by the company MICRO POVVDERS. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional wax chosen from apolar waxes. Preferably, the additional apolar wax or waxes are chosen from polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, microcrystalline waxes and polymethylene waxes, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one polar additional wax, in particular waxes, corresponding to the total esters of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated C16-C30 carboxylic acid, with glycerol, and at least one additional apolar wax, in particular polyethylene wax type and their mixture, in particular a mixture of an additional polar wax-type wax corresponding to the total esters of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol, and a wax additional apolar type polyethylene waxes. Dyestuff: The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from dyestuffs, organic or inorganic, optically effective materials, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuff" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Pigments By pigments, white or colored particles, inorganic (inorganic) or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposition carried out with the composition.
[0074] The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials). The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lacquers and optical effect pigments, such as nacres and goniochromatic pigments. The inorganic pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides and zirconium oxides. chromium hydrate, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powders, copper powder, and mixtures thereof. Organic lacquers are organic pigments formed of a dye attached to a substrate. Lacquers which are also called organic pigments may be chosen from the following materials and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine; organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane and fluorane dyes. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of those known under the following names: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10, D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, No. 30 D & C Red No. 27 , D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6; the organic lakes may be insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene dyes, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluoran, these dyes may comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group. Organic lacquers may also be supported by an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of the following denominations: D & C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Potassium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 8 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 10 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 19 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 21 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 21 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 22 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 27 Barium Lake , D & C Red # 27 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 27 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 28 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 30 Lake, D & C Red # 31 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 33 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 34 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 36 Lake, D & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, D & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, D & C Green # 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Orange No. 10 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange No. 17 Barium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 4 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake. Mention may also be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soya oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2 , orange DC 5, yellow quinoline. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in the "International Cosmetic Integrative Dictionary and Handbook", Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association". The contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0075] The pigments may also have undergone hydrophobic treatment. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as meticones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0076] The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The alkyl term mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 atoms. of carbon. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683. Nacre For the purposes of the present application, "mother-of-pearl" is understood to mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a 30 organic dye including the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.
[0077] The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the nacres that can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition, there may be mentioned gold colored nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 2220 (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the nacres of brown hue sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chroma-lite); the gold-colored red-colored pearlescent agents marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl sold by Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Goniochromatic Pigments For the purpose of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" denotes a pigment which makes it possible to obtain, when the composition is spread on a support, a color path in the plane a * b * of the CIE 1976 color space. which corresponds to a variation Dh ° of the angle of h ° h of at least 20 ° when the angle of observation is varied with respect to the normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of light incidence of 450. The color path can be measured for example by means of an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand spectrogoniorflectometer and GON 360 GONIOMETER reference, after the composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 μm by means of a spreader. automatically on an ERICHSEN brand contrast card and Typ 24/5, the measurement being made on the black background of the card. The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen for example from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS , ZnSe, Si, 5iO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti , Ta, VV, Zn, Mo52, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures are for example the following structures: Fe 2 O 3 / 5iO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / 5iO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; Mo52 / 5122 / mica-oxide / 5122 / Mo52; Fe2O3 / 5iO2 / mica-oxide / 5iO2 / Fe2O3; TiO 2 / 5iO 2 / TiO 2 and TiO 2 / Al 2 O 3 / TiO 2, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company Merck. The liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible, for example, to use those sold by the company Chenix as well as those sold under the name Helicone® HO by the company VVacker. As goniochromatic pigment, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments with effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular substrate type alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interference flakes from a polyterephthalate film.
[0079] By way of nonlimiting examples of goniochromatic pigments, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of SunShine® goniochromatic pigments marketed by Sun, Cosmicolor Celeste® by Toyo Aluminum K.K., Xirona® by Merck, Reflecks Multidimensions® by BASF.
[0080] These particles may optionally comprise or be covered with optical brightener (s) (or white organic fluorescent substances). Optical brighteners are compounds well known to those skilled in the art. Such compounds are described in "Fluorescent Vishing Agent, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer," Vol. 11, p. 227-241, 4th edition, 1994, VViley. Their use in cosmetics draws particular benefit from the fact that they consist of chemical compounds with fluorescent properties that absorb in the ultraviolet (maximum absorption at a wavelength of less than 400 nm) and re-emit energy through fluorescence for a wavelength between 380 and 830 nm. They can more particularly be defined as compounds which absorb essentially in the UVA between 300 and 390 nm and re-emit essentially between 400 and 525 nm. Their lightening effect is based more particularly on an energy emission of between 400 and 480 nm, which corresponds to an emission in the blue of the visible range, which contributes, when this emission takes place on the skin, to brighten it visually. Stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarines and aminocoumarines, oxazole derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, imidazole derivatives, triazole derivatives, pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives, are especially known as optical brighteners. porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof. Optical brighteners that may be used may also be in the form of copolymers, for example acrylates and / or methacrylates, grafted with optical brightening groups as described in application FR 99 10942.
[0081] If the composition comprises a dyestuff, its content is advantageously between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise dyestuff. Adjuvant: In a known manner, the composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetic field, such as lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, plant extracts, antioxidants, nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the first oily phase and / or into the second oily phase.
[0082] Processes: The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the following protocols. It is thus possible, in a first step, to prepare the second oily phase as well as the resin and, where appropriate, the pasty fatty substances which are mixed together and then, in a second step, the first oily phase. Then, for example, continue the process for preparing the emulsion according to the variants described below.
[0083] According to a first variant, the process for preparing the emulsion comprises the following stages, in this order: mixing the second oily phase and the resin, and optionally pasty fatty substances; stirring the mixture up to solubilization of the resin, - addition of the first oily phase, - introduction of the solid microparticles in the emulsion, - emulsification of the mixture. The emulsification, also called emulsification, of these two oily phases leads to the creation of an interface, and more particularly a dispersion of one of the oily phases in the other oily phase. In a third step, the solid microparticles are added to the emulsion formed and then the mixture is agitated, either by means of a set of shear forces or by means of ultrasound.
[0084] According to a second variant, the process for preparing the emulsion is such that the solid microparticles are introduced into the first oily phase or into the second oily phase. In this case, the process comprises the following steps, in this order: introduction of the solid microparticles respectively into the first oily phase or into the second oily phase and the resin, and where appropriate the pasty fatty substances, respectively introduction of the second oily phase and the resin, and optionally the pasty fatty substances or the first oily phase, - emulsification of the mixture. According to this second variant, the microparticles are first introduced into one of the two oily phases and then a set of shear forces or ultrasound is applied in order to obtain a homogeneous dispersion of said microparticles in said oily phase. The other oily phase is then added. According to a third variant, the process for preparing the emulsion comprises the following stages, in this order: - simultaneous introduction of the solid microparticles, the first oily phase and the second oily phase and the resin and, if appropriate, the fatty substances pasty, - emulsification of the mixture. According to this variant, the emulsion is obtained by mixing the solid microparticles and the two oily phases and stirring vigorously.
[0085] Emulsification is done by subjecting the mixture of the two oily phases and the solid micropaticules to a set of shear forces or ultrasound to obtain its homogeneity. By "homogeneity" of an emulsion is meant an emulsion in which the drops of internal phases are uniformly dispersed in the continuous or external oily phase. The droplets of phases dispersed in the emulsion may be very fine, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 10 μm, or may be larger, in particular ranging from 10 μm to 1 cm.
[0086] Those skilled in the art will be able to choose the conditions and the device best suited to obtain the set of forces necessary to obtain the type of emulsion in question, in particular to obtain the size of the droplets targeted. This set of forces can be obtained by subjecting the first and second oily phases or the emulsion to manual stirring or mechanical stirring such as a Moritz mixer, Rayneri stirrer, Ultraturax stirrer or by ultrasonic homogenization. The rate of mixing or stirring to obtain a phase or a homogeneous emulsion may depend on various factors such as its composition or its volume. The various parameters of the agitation, including speed, can be determined by one skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge and, where appropriate, by means of some routine tests.
[0087] In the following description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper bounds. The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the invention.
[0088] Example: Compositions according to the invention as defined above were prepared and tested for their brilliance and good gloss performance after 1 hour (the contents are given by weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated).
[0089] Protocol for the Preparation of the said Compositions 1. The oils which constitute the second oily phase as well as the resin according to the invention and the pasty fatty substances are weighed first. The whole constituting the phase A. This phase A is introduced into a tank, heated to 110 ° C. and then mixed with the Rayneri at 300 rpm for 20 minutes until complete solubilization of the resin. 2. In a beaker, the oils constituting the first oily phase are weighed then mixed and homogenized by hand. This constitutes phase B. This phase B is introduced into the tank at 110 ° C. and then mixed with the Rayneri at 700 rpm. 3. The solid microparticles (Phase C) are introduced into the tank and stirred for 15 minutes. 4. The constituents of phase D are weighed and then introduced into the tank at 110 ° C and stirred for 5 minutes. 5. The dyestuffs of phase E are added to the vat and stirred for 10 minutes. Phase Ingredients Composition Composition Composition Al A2 A3 (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) Phase A polybutene (INDOPOL 13 13 13 H 100 from INEOS) tetraisostearate from 30 30 22 pentaerythrityl (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ- (MH) from CRODA) isostearate d hydrogenated castor oil (SALACOS HCISV-L from NISSHIN OILLIO) bis-diglyceryl 12 - - polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649 from CREMER OLEO) styrene / 2 2 10 methyl styrene / indene hydrogen copolymer (REGALITE R1100 CG HYDROCARBON RESIN of EASTMAN CHEMICAL) Phase B poly (phenyltrimethylsiloxy dimethylsiloxane) (BELSIL PDM 1000 from VVACKER) Phase C methylsilanol / silicate 2 2 2 crosspolymer (NLK 506 from TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT) Phase D texturizers (waxes 5.2 5.2 5.2 thickener mineral) Phase E Dyestuffs Qs 100 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Makeup Tests: Shine and hold are evaluated using a SAMBA polarimetric camera and a SEI-M-0738-CHRO-10 Chromosphere as described in application FR 2 829 344. The held In time, a cosmetic composition reflects its ability to withstand mechanical or physical stresses, such as friction or stretching of the makeup surface. The behavior of a composition of the invention over time can be evaluated by different protocols, for example as described below. The brightness is evaluated just after application of the composition and one hour after application. In order to evaluate the gloss behavior, the compositions are applied to the lips of a panel of six subjects with thick, clear lips. The evaluation of the tights is done by a panel of experts (20 trained subjects).
[0090] The compositions according to the invention have good gloss on application. There is no significant difference in brightness at the application and after one hour, which means that the compositions according to the invention have a good gloss performance. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention have a low level of tack and film thickness. Stability Measurement Protocol: In order to verify the maintenance of the solid particles in the compositions, centrifugations were performed at room temperature. The composition samples (gloss) were introduced into tubes (approximately 16 g of composition) and then into the centrifuge (10 min at 450 rpm). The thermal stability of the compositions of the invention is also verified: no oil salting is observed after 2 months at ambient temperature and at 47 ° C. The compositions according to the invention have good stability after 2 months at room temperature and at 47 ° C. EXAMPLE 2 The following compositions according to the invention are prepared (the contents are indicated by weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated): The preparation protocol of the compositions used is similar to that detailed above. However, the oily phases are introduced into a tank heated to 80 ° C. after the casting of the resin.
[0091] Phase Ingredients Composition B1 Composition B2 Polybutene Phase A (INDOPOL H 100 from I NEOS) 6 6 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ (MH) from CRODA) 14 14 bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649 from CREMER OLEO) 5 5 styrene / methyl styrene / indene hydrogen copolymer (EASTMAN CHEMICAL REGALITE R1100 CG HYDROCARBON RESIN) 15 isohexadecane - 6 (ISOHEXADECANE from INEOS) Phase B trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane (DOW CORNING PH-1555 DOW CORNING HRI COSMETIC FLUID) 12 12 polyphenyltrimethylsiloxy dimethylsiloxane (BELSIL PDM 1000 from wacker) 27 27 cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (XIAMETER PMX-0246 CYCLOHEXASILOXANE from Dow Corning) 6 - Phase C methylsilanol / silicate 2 2 crosspolymer (NLK 506 from TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT) Phase D Waxes 3 3 Mineral thickener 2,3 2,3 Phase E Dyestuffs Qsp 100 Qsp 100 The compositions according to the invention have good gloss on application as well as a low level of adhesive.

权利要求:
Claims (16)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. Composition in the form of an oil / oil (H / H) emulsion, more particularly intended for makeup and / or care of the lips, comprising at least: solid microparticles having at least one curved portion and at least one curvature rupture of said curved portion, at least one hydrocarbon resin having a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, at least a first oily phase comprising at least a first oil chosen from silicone or fluorinated oils, preferably silicone oils; and at least one second oily phase comprising at least one second nonvolatile or volatile oil, preferably nonvolatile, immiscible with the first oil or oils at ambient temperature.
[0002]
2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the solid microparticles comprise one or more curvatures, preferably several curvatures.
[0003]
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the solid microparticles have a hollow hemispherical shape that is to say of the type "bowls".
[0004]
A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the solid microparticles are made of crosslinked Methylesilanol / silicate crosspolymer polymer.
[0005]
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of solid microparticles ranges from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0006]
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the hydrocarbon resin or resins has or has a softening point ranging from 70 to 130 ° C, in particular is (are) chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon resins, particularly preferably in the group consisting of: hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers; aliphatic pentanediene resins; diene resins of dimers of cyclopentanediene, methyldicyclopentanediene, other dimers of pentanediene, and mixtures thereof; hydrogenated resins resulting from the polymerization of pentanediene; and mixtures thereof, more preferably is (are) chosen from hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers.
[0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of hydrocarbon resin is from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 25%, even more preferably from 1.5% to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0008]
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the first oily phase comprises at least one phenylsilicone nonvolatile oil having or not at least one dimethicone fragment, preferably having at least one dimethicone fragment, in particular trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone.
[0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of the first oily phase is between 5% and 60% by weight, preferably between 10% and 50% by weight and even more preferably between 20% and 50% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the second oil phase comprises at least one polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one apolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture of one or more hydrocarbon oils. nonvolatilespolar and one or more non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils.
[0011]
11. The composition of claim 10 wherein the nonvolatile polar oil is an oil comprising at most one free hydroxyl group or not including, preferably a polyester comprising at least three ester functions of mono- or poly acids. -carboxylic, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally hydroxyl, 04-040 and respectively of polyols or monohydric alcohols at 02-040, preferably at 03-040; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0012]
12. The composition of claim 10 wherein the apolar non-volatile oil is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as polybutylenes.
[0013]
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the content of the second oily phase is between 5% and 60%, preferably between 10% and 55%, even more preferably between 15% and 55% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.
[0014]
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pasty fatty substance, in particular chosen from esters of glycerol oligomers, esters of hydrogenated castor oils and vegetable oils. or partially hydrogenated and mixtures thereof, more particularly a mixture of glycerol oligomer esters and hydrogenated castor oil esters.
[0015]
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax, in particular chosen from hydroxyl linear fatty acids at 018-024, preferably saturated.
[0016]
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additionalpolar wax, in particular of wax type corresponding to the total esters of a carboxylic acid in 0-16-030, saturated, optionally hydroxylated, with the glycerol, and at least one additional apolar wax, in particular of the polyethylene wax type and their mixture, in particular a mixture of an additional polar wax of wax type corresponding to the total esters of a saturated carboxylic acid in 0-16-030, optionally hydroxyl, with glycerol, and an additional wax apolar type polyethylene waxes.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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WO2016116488A1|2016-07-28|

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FR3031670B1|2018-07-13|

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优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1550471|2015-01-21|

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FR1550471A|FR3031670B1|2015-01-21|2015-01-21|OIL / OIL EMULSION COMPRISING SOLID MICROPARTICLES, AT LEAST ONE HYDROCARBON RESIN, AT LEAST ONE OILY PHASE AND AT LEAST ONE SECOND OIL PHASE|FR1550471A| FR3031670B1|2015-01-21|2015-01-21|OIL / OIL EMULSION COMPRISING SOLID MICROPARTICLES, AT LEAST ONE HYDROCARBON RESIN, AT LEAST ONE OILY PHASE AND AT LEAST ONE SECOND OIL PHASE|

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PCT/EP2016/051096| WO2016116488A1|2015-01-21|2016-01-20|Oil/oil emulsion comprising solid microparticles, at least one hydrocarbon-based resin, at least a first oily phase and at least a second oily phase|